BY: Deon Thompson
A select few lucky New York Fashion Week attendees had the pleasure of being
in the presence of a legend on Thursday September 6th. We entered the Sonos Soho
store Ruth E.Carter event, never to exit the same. We stood watching in awe that such a
force was walking freely in Soho with no security. Needles to say, we think highly of
her.
To put things into perspective, A year ago I was sitting in Kansas daydreaming and brainstorming for ways to keep fashion in my life. Since working in wardrobe is my dream, researching my favorite film costume designers led me to Ruth. Talk about coming full circle. I was awestruck to be in her presence. I was not the only one with this sentiment. One woman flew in specifically for this event. Explaining her African clothing
brand never reaching it’s potential until Black Panther came out. Suddenly, orders came rushing in as buyers explained, “now I get it”. Ruth has mastered the look of multiple periods and genres. Her work spans from over twenty years of professional experience. However director Ryan Coogler’s Black Panther is the film that pushed Ruth, and her amazing work into the stratosphere.
The event venue transformed into standing room only as the few seats were quickly filled. Tiny rooms on display featured televisions with slideshows of Ruth E. Carter’s iconic costume designs. Ranging from the movies Baps,the Butler, I’m Gonna Get you Sucka, Selma and Black Panther. We were also blessed with
some behind the scenes information from the designer herself.
Upon entering my eyes were fixated upon two of the costumes on display from the Black Panther movie. The first costume displayed the Killmonger suite, included the scarification and the important gold necklace. Ruth explained the production process where a sculpt is made of the actors muscles to fit the costume perfectly. The shoe of the costume was a task in itself, as a shoe is needed for each actor wearing the costume. The martial arts double, photo double, second unit double all needed specific shoes. “The
costume has to fit over each costume wearers shoe.” Another costume that was present is
Actor Daniel Kaluuyas character W’kab. His costume features a Basotho blanket on the
right. On the left side a blue blanket with Wakanda righting all over it. This costume was
a thick heavy pile. 250 blankets were imported. Unfortunately, two weeks before shooting Marvel said the blankets were too thick and could not be used. The blankets ended up being burnt to make them thin enough to be used for production.
Ruth explained the walk through with Ryan Coogler and the producers. It was always a big
presentation including Dogon masks and Basotho blankets on the wall. Shoppers in South
Africa and west Africa collected the real thing so Ruth could base the designs for the film
on the authentic pieces. “Ryan said I want the armor to feel like jewelry” so Ruth enlisted
Douriean Fletcher as the jewelry designer as is evident when watching the film, every
aspect of each costume was carefully planned and executed.
Ruth E. Carter’s rise to household notoriety was not built overnight. Ruth explained “ My journey has mentors of different times. I looked at the designers I admired no matter what color they were.” When asked about acquiring the coveted SAG card.“ I didn’t focus on the union. I focused on doing what I liked to do.” Ruth acknowledged all of the people it takes to create such elaborate authentic costumes. She
also emphasized the importance of having a dedicated loyal team. On the production
process for Black Panther.“ I had five illustrators in a dark room, I was kind of the head historian.The process was a lot like that, me motivating people me doing the research.”
When asked what inspires her as a costume designer Ruth replied “ I love history I’m inspired by the
people. I feel a great deal of responsibility to my family, to your family, to the ancestors.” An ever present force in film, especially in ‘Black cinema’ Ruth E. Carter is upholding this responsibility to the highest standard. For what you have done, and will continue to do we applaud you and we thank you.
